Thursday, July 29, 2010
How to stop Puppymills

Check out this list of 10 things you can do to help stop puppy mills:

1. Get an Education 
Whether you're thinking about getting a dog, want to educate others about puppy mills or just want to learn more, check out more information on puppy mills and puppy buying: 
Inside a Puppy Mill »
Frequently Asked Questions About Puppy Mills »
Puppy Buying Tips »

2.  Stop Puppy Mills on Your Website
Add a "Stop Puppy Mills" or "Puppy Buyers Guide" banner to your website, MySpace page, Facebook page or blog, and start educating visitors about the dangers of puppy mills and pet stores. more » 

3. Assist With Ads
Help The HSUS place “Stop Puppy Mill” ads in national magazines and on billboards in communities around the country. more » 

4. Get the Kit
The Dog Savers Kit has everything you’ll need to start spreading the word about puppy mills in your community, including printed materials, letter templates, tips for developing legislation and activity ideas. The kit is designed to help you discuss the puppy mill issue accurately and intelligently, whether speaking to friends and family or the local media. $3.00 each. Download the order form »

5. Forward to a Friend
Know someone who is thinking about bringing a puppy into their family? Send them a message with a link to the Stop Puppy Mills website so they can read our puppy buying tips, sign the pledge and learn more about puppy mills. more »

6. Lobby for Better Laws 
Contact your federal and state legislators and let them know that you’re concerned about the inhumane treatment of dogs in puppy mills and want the puppy mill issue to be a priority for congress. Ask them to expand the reach of the Animal Welfare Act to include kennels that sell large numbers of puppies directly to the public and to ban the imports of puppies for resale. more »

7. Get “Stop Puppy Mills” Stuff
Spread the word about puppy mills wherever you go with stickers, t-shirts, bookmarks, dog collars and flyers. more »

8. Speak Up
Writing a letter to the editor of your local newspaper is a great way to get the word out about puppy mills in your community. Write your own version—a short, polite letter is most effective—or download a Microsoft Word version of the template that you can alter. Download the sample letter »

9. Furnish Your Vet With Flyers
Supply your vet or groomer’s office with informational flyers—“How to Buy a Puppy” and “How to Find a Good Dog Breeder”—designed to help potential pet owners avoid puppy mills. Download the order form » 

10. Donate
Help The HSUS in our ongoing campaign to stop puppy mills. Please make a donation today. more »

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courtesy of http://www.stoppuppymills.org/

  
Puppymill Survivor

Adopting The PuppyMill Survivor

mill5As society grows more conscious of animal abuse and neglect, we read nearly every day about a puppymill being closed down and the animals confiscated. Many times these animals are in deplorable physical condition: parasite-ridden, underweight, bred nearly to death. Most have rarely been out of their small, cramped cages. They may have eye infections, missing orbs or vision impairment caused by ammonia from urine-soaked quarters. Some have torn, deformed ears and missing limbs from cage aggression. Females may have hernias from painful, extended labor. Their toes may be splayed from walking on wire floors. Many have tattooed ears. Some have numbers hung around their necks on chains that have grown into their flesh. Their dental state is invariably horrible; most will have painful, infected teeth and gums, some resulting in systemic infections.mill6

These are animals who've endured years of torture to make money for uncaring humans.

When a reputable rescuer gets her hands on a puppymill survivor, providing medical attention is just the beginning. The physical damage can be staggering. The psychological damage is much worse.

It takes a very special adopter to accept and love a puppymill survivor. Rehabilitation of the puppymill survivor begins with rescue, but can only be completed by a committed, loving family. The purpose of this article is to help demystify some of the acquired behaviors of the puppymill dog, and to let the adopter know what to expect.

Common Puppymill Survivor Behaviors

mill7Terror of humans hands: The only time most mill dogs are removed from their cages, it's a painful experience. The dog may be grabbed by the first reachable part of it's body: tail, leg, scruff, ears. This takes lots of patience and non-threatening touches to overcome. 

You may have to lie on the floor face down with your eyes averted to get the dog to approach you at all. Let him come near you and sniff. It may take an hour, or days for this to happen. You can sometimes begin by holding the dog, petting him gently for a few seconds, speaking softly, then place him carefully down. Let him know you do not wish to restrain him. Lengthen the time for this ritual each day. Never raise your voice, clap your hands, or allow loud noises in the home during this adjustment period. You must strive to create a totally non-threatening environment. Behave as submissively as possible. Build trust slowly.

Aversion To Eye Contact: Many puppymill survivors refuse to make eye contact with humans. This indicates fearful submission which decreases as the dog comes to realize he will not be harmed by you and begins to trust. Talking to your dog in a soft, calm voice helps speed the process. A dog may not speak English, but the gentle tone of your voice and the fact that he is the focus of your concern will be understood.

The "I'm Afraid Of My Food" Routine: Anytime the cage door is opened on a mill dog, fear is the response, because an evil human is behind it. Of course, the cage door must be opened to insert a bowl of food, which may also be used to entice the dog within reach. It's not unusual to see your puppymill survivor run in the opposite direction when you sit dinner on the floor. Turn your back and walk away until the dog feels "safe" enough to eat. Let him eat undisturbed.

Marking/Housetraining: No puppymill survivor comes housetrained. Some never grasp the finer points. Most males will mark, and many females, too. Crates are useful in housetraining. Belly bands (a cloth band which wraps around male dogs covering the ureter) will help prevent marking. Nicely fitted doggie diapers are available from Foster and Smith. Human diapers can also be used - just cut a hole for the tail. Put your dog on a schedule. Take him outside first thing in the morning, at lunchtime whenever possible, after dinner, before bedtime. If you see him lift his leg in the house, a shaker can (jar filled with small pebbles) or clicker can distract him long enough for you to get him outside. Never raise your voice. Never hit a dog. Take him outside and reinforce by saying, "Potty outside", or something similar.  Use positive reinforcement when the dog does his business outside..."Good boy! Potty outside! Good, good boy!" Lots of petting must follow. : )

Flight Risk: All puppymill survivors are high flight risks. Never take your dog outside a securely fenced yard until you are thoroughly bonded. Then if you take your dog outside the fence, double-check to be sure harness is secure enough. I sometimes use a collar and harness, then run the lead from the collar through the harness for extra safety. If a mill dog gets loose outside a secured area, he will likely run until he drops; catching him will be quite a feat. Prevention is by far the best policy.

Coprophagy: Stool-eating is common in puppymill survivors. There is much contention as to the cause. However, most rescuers feel it is a learned behavior. Again, prevention is the best policy.  Pick up the yard frequently. Some mill dogs stop this behavior over time.

Fear of Water: Many puppymill survivors are frightened of water hoses. Puppymillers generally don't bother removing the dogs before hosing down their cages. I have known adopters whose puppymill survivors have become well-acclimated to homes, families and leashed walks only to have the dog bolt when they chanced by a neighbor watering his lawn.

Fear Biting: Fear biting is more common in abuse cases than in puppymill survivors, but we do see it occasionally. 90% of all dogs who bite do so out of fear. Puppymill survivors, like feral dogs, usually cower in the presence of humans. Fear biting can frequently be overcome with proper training and commitment, but it generally requires a professional animal behaviorist, not to mention a strong commitment from the adoptive family. Sadly, because of both the enormity of the canine overpopulation problem and the abundance of more easily salvageable dogs, most fear biters are euthanized.


These are a few of the most common puppymill survivor behaviors and suggestions for working with them. Working with a puppymill survivor is not an easy undertaking. But for those of us who have witnessed the miracle of these frightened beings growing to love and trust, to play with toys for the first time, to learn to take soft beds and good food for granted, it is one of the most joyful and rewarding experiences of our lives.

The puppymill survivor who ventures to trust a human being despite a history of cruelty and neglect is a triumph of the spirit from which we can all learn.

  
 
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